Issue 4, Vol. 112 (2025)

The study examines the historical development of caftan-inspired clothing in Central Europe, with a particular focus on the župica – a close-fitting, elongated men’s coat. The article offers a detailed description of the linguistic development, use of materials and social context of the župica in the 16th century. In its historical form, the župica defies simple categories. It was both a functional outer garment and an expression of identity, worn by soldiers, foreman, merchants and city servants. It appeared in heraldic signs and symbolism of the city state, but also in criminal writings and descriptions of robber groups. Its oriental origin, evident in its terminology and construction, gradually transformed into a domestic clothing context during the 16th century, without completely losing its exotic touch. This duality – between foreignness and everydayness – makes the župica an exceptionally suitable object for the study of cultural transfers and hybrid forms of clothing.

The agglomeration of Brno was affected relatively early by industrialization and the associated modernization processes, which led to the disappearance of traditional folk dress in many villages as early as the mid-19th century. At the beginning of the 20th century, with the rise of the national movement, variants of the national costumes replaced traditional folk dress at rural festivals. Over time, the Kyjov costume gained a prominent position and it is still worn in many villages. However, it is gradually being replaced by revived forms of traditional folk costume. The study examines the reasons behind the declining identification with the Kyjov costume. It illustrates a shift in perceptions of traditional folk dress, which is no longer perceived as a marker of national identity but of regional identity. At the same time, it demonstrates how the Kyjov costume strengthens other identities.

The activities of cimbalom music bands, which have significantly evolved in functions and numbers, have given rise to a wide variety of musical occasions—from the commonplace to the highly specific—in which these ensembles are actively involved. This article is based on research into cimbalom music bands in Slovácko region and attempts to identify and characterize the various types of musical occasions in which they perform. Furthermore, it situates them in the broader sociocultural and regional context. Therefore, it examines the diverse functional purposes of the specific occasions, primarily in terms of organization and commercial connotation. The combination of these criteria yields four specific types, which are elaborated and characterized in detail, while also acknowledging the numerous exceptions that exist between these types. The typology draws on Thomas Turino’s theory in distinguishing between the presentational and participatory character of the musical occasions.

The article traces the development of folk clothing in the village of Javorník from the second half of the 19th century to the present, based on the study of literature, archival sources, tangible artifacts and field research. All clothing components are described, with specific reference to their differences from traditional costumes from the surrounding villages. Current occasions for wearing the costume within the community are also described. The analysis of clothing components reveals that folk clothing in Javorník cannot be considered a single uniform style corresponding to a specific historical era. Men’s, women’s and children’s garments are composed of pieces that have different origins and that were incorporated into folk clothing in different periods, some of which are very archaic, while others come from the first half of the 20th century. The research further reveals that Calvinism and the long-term influence of local spiritual leaders significantly shaped this development.

The case study examines the Islamic Cemetery in Altach as an award-winning art project and as an expression of the history of migration. It is based on field research that included non-participant observation, a critical analysis of scholarly literature, an analysis of photo documentation and the self-presentations of the communities. The cemetery, which is the first of its kind in the Austrian state of Vorarlberg, serves various Islamic communities and reflects the transformations of funerary culture in the context of migration and integration. The case study examines the specific features of the tombstones, and their materials and decoration. Primarily, it shows how the cemetery contributes to forming the identity of younger generations of Muslim immigrants in Austria. It also analyzes the social and cultural aspects that influence the perception of the cemetery as a final resting place and as a symbol of the coexistence of different faiths.