Abstrakt
The study examines the historical development of caftan-inspired clothing in Central Europe, with a particular focus on the župica – a close-fitting, elongated men’s coat. The article offers a detailed description of the linguistic development, use of materials and social context of the župica in the 16th century. In its historical form, the župica defies simple categories. It was both a functional outer garment and an expression of identity, worn by soldiers, foreman, merchants and city servants. It appeared in heraldic signs and symbolism of the city state, but also in criminal writings and descriptions of robber groups. Its oriental origin, evident in its terminology and construction, gradually transformed into a domestic clothing context during the 16th century, without completely losing its exotic touch. This duality – between foreignness and everydayness – makes the župica an exceptionally suitable object for the study of cultural transfers and hybrid forms of clothing.